JORGE ORDÓÑEZ & CO.

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Bodegas Jorge Ordóñez Málaga isn’t just making wine—it’s rewriting history. Founded in 2004 in Ordóñez’s hometown, this winery was born from a simple but audacious idea: to bring Málaga’s once-great winemaking traditions back from the dead. Phylloxera nearly wiped them off the map in the 19th century, but Jorge had other plans. Teaming up with the legendary Kracher family of Austria, he set out to restore the region to its former glory. And he’s done exactly that.

The proof? Spain’s first and finest dry Moscatel de Alejandría, Botani, a wine that shattered expectations of what Muscat could be. Then there’s the unfortified sweet wines—Nºs 1 through 4—crafted in the style that once made Málaga’s wines famous from the 17th to 19th centuries. This isn’t just nostalgia; it’s excellence. In 2012, Nº2 Victoria became the first Spanish wine ever poured at a Nobel Prize dinner, a fitting nod to a region that’s finally reclaiming its rightful place on the world stage.

The backbone of it all is Muscat of Alexandria, the original Muscat. This isn’t some modern hybrid—it’s the real deal, one of the last ancient, genetically uncrossed grape varieties still standing. Originally cultivated around Alexandria, Egypt, and brought to Málaga by the Phoenicians 3,000 years ago, this grape has history baked into its DNA. But growing it here isn’t easy. The vineyards—planted between 1902 and 1974—are perched on sheer, un-terraced mountainsides, some with slopes as steep as 70 degrees. No terraces, no machines—just backbreaking work, carried out by hand, with mules hauling 15kg crates of grapes up the cliffs. It’s viticulture at its most extreme, a battle between human determination and an unforgiving landscape.

To keep the grapes brimming with acidity in Málaga’s sun-drenched climate, Jorge Ordóñez Málaga only works with high-altitude, north-facing vineyards, most sitting above 700 metres. It’s a strategic move that gives these wines their freshness, their balance, their edge.

This winery isn’t just about making great wine—it’s about resurrecting a lost legacy. And they’re doing it with grit, with vision, and with a deep respect for the land. If you want to understand the soul of Málaga, start here.